Wool processing
The vast majority of Australian wool is transformed into yarn via the Worsted processing system. AWI’s dedication to research and development keeps Australian wool competitive in the changing manufacturing market.
There are two distinct methods of yarn production:
1. The Worsted System
- Uses longer length wools (greater than 65mm staple length).
- Wool is made into tops before spinning into yarn.
- Eighty per cent of Australia's wool is processed this way.
2. The Woollen System
- Uses much shorter wool such as locks, crutchings, bellies and lambs' wool.
- All carbonised wool and a substantial amount of scoured wool is processed this way.
- Produces a bulkier yarn that is used in knitting and some weaving.
The six major processes of worsted yarn are:
- Scouring - a washing process that removes dust, suint (sweat) and wool wax.
- Carding - rollers covered with teeth tease apart the staples of wool, laying the fibres nearly parallel to form a soft rope called a 'sliver'.
- Combing - the comb separates short from long fibres, ensuring that the long fibres are laid parallel to produce a combed sliver called a 'top'.
- Drawing - several tops are drawn out into the thickness of one, to thoroughly blend the wool and ensure evenness or regularity of the resulting 'roving'.
- Finisher drawing - reduces the roving thickness to suit the spinning operation and further improve evenness.
- Spinning - insertion of twist into the yarn to give strength to the finished yarn.
Worsted vs woollen fabrics
- Worsted fabrics are often more expensive than wool spun products due to the longer raw material to resultant yarn processing route used.
- Worsted fabric is stronger and wears better than a woollen spun fabric of equivalent weave construction and fabric weight.
- Worsted fabrics are preferred for trousers, suitings, other garments and upholstery fabrics where a smooth finish is required.
- Woollen spun fabrics are used for jackets, coats, skirts, upholstery fabrics, rugs and blankets where bulk and textured finishes are desirable.
Processing variations
The woollen processing system can be varied to meet various market requirements. Variance in processing methods occurs either chemically or physically.
Chemical processing variances include:
- Shrink proofing;
- Fire proofing; and
- Moth proofing.
Physical processing variances include:
- Blending exotic fibres, such as cashmere or silk; and
- Blending man-made fibres.
The wool marketplace
Twenty years ago, most Australian wool was transported to Japan, the USSR and Western Europe. Today, China and Italy are the major destinations for Australian greasy or part-processed wool. A substantial part of Japanese wool processing capacity has been relocated to lower cost China, reflecting again the price pressures on textile manufacture.
World trade in fabric and finished products has expanded rapidly as retailers source goods from manufacturers worldwide. Alongside reductions in overall wool, trade in yarn, fabric and apparel items has grown 12 per cent. This is expected to escalate as trade barriers are reduced.
Early stage processing in Australia has expanded in the last decade also in response to economic, marketplace and environmental realities. Over 30 per cent of wool is scoured and much made into tops before being exported.
However, spinning, weaving, knitting and fabric production declined even though Australian import tariffs are continuing until 2005. The year 2000 saw an eight per cent increase in local yarn making offset by a 13 per cent fall in fabric making and higher imports of yarns and fabrics.
Wool, as a naturally grown and complex product, is expensive compared to alternatives at all stages - from raw material purchase through to spinning where the additional cost is particularly high.
AWI invests in research, development and innovation that aims to reduce costs and improve production efficiencies at all stages along the wool pipeline.
That wool continues to sell in the face of such comparative costs is testimony to wool's intrinsic qualities.
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